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Monday, December 26, 2011
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Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Tips For Growing Healthy Grass On Your First Try
It is a well known fact that the best time to seed your lawn is autumn, after the hottest weather. People must forget this fact though, because most grass seed is sold in the spring. If you do have to seed in the spring, you should do so as soon as the ground thaws. The roots need time to gain strength before the weather gets too hot. In the summer, grass has do deal with dry conditions, hot weather, and competition with weeds. It is tough for it to try to begin growing in these conditions. If you don't seed in the fall, and miss the early spring window, you should make a temporary lawn out of rye grass until you can make your permanent lawn in the fall.
Grass seed is smaller than most other plant seeds, and it should be planted shallow. The larger grass seeds should be fully covered with moist soil, whereas smaller seeds like bent grass only need to be partially covered by moist soil. For every 1000 square feet of lawn you have, you should use 4 lbs. of seed. Adding extra seeds won't compensate for poor growing conditions. In fact, it will hurt the growth because the seedling will have to compete with one another.
You can hand spread the seeds if necessary, but it is better to use a mechanical spreader if possible when sowing grass seed. Either way, you should sow the seeds by spreading part in one direction, then the rest crosswise. This will ensure that you didn't miss any spots. You should then lightly rake the seeds. To firm the seeds in the soil, you should roll over it lightly with a roller. You can put a small amount (1/8 inch) of compost or screened soil over small lawns.
If you lawn is sloped, you need to take some extra precautions so new seedlings won't wash down the slope with rain water. One option is to cover the area with straw. Another option is to cover the seedlings with an open mesh cloth that will just become part of the soil and dissolve with time. It will protect the seedlings from washing away and from sun exposure. If you use burlap to cover the seedlings, it should be removed when the grass grows to a height of around ¼ inch.
To water the seeds, natural rainfall is best if possible. You will have to water it yourself if the weather isn't cooperating though. You should water in the early morning with a misty spray. You don't want puddles to form. The grass will die if you don't keep the moisture supply constant once it they sprout.
In areas that are level, you should use a sprinkler to water about 5 inches of soil each time you water. The soil should not become compacted or waterlogged though. If the grass is on a slope, you should water it with a canvas hose or a hose wrapped in porous canvas. The water should ooze out in big drops. Once the grass starts to grow, don't be tempted to mow too soon. The grass shouldn't be mowed until it is at least 2 inches high.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Do It Yourself Concrete Staining: Things to Know Before You Begin
Do it yourself concrete staining is the cheapest and easiest way to enhance the appearance of your concrete surfaces. The alternatives, tearing out existing concrete and replacing with new or decorative overlays, are not recommended for do-it-yourselfers and can be very expensive. But before you begin your staining project there are a few things you need to know.
There are two types of concrete stains to choose from, acid stains and acrylic stains. Acid stains work by chemically reacting with free lime in the surface to produce a natural looking, translucent color. They create a mottled, variegated, multi-hued coloring. Every concrete surface reacts differently to acids stains making each job unique. Acrylic stains are waterborne and have pigments that seep into the pores and adhere to the concrete, therefore creating a more consistent, semi translucent color like that of a dye. Acrylic stains will help mask imperfections and discolorations whereas acid stains actually accentuate them.
For many surfaces, acid and acrylic stains will work equally as well, but which one you choose depends on the look you want. However, there are situations where one type will work better than the other. For older, exterior concrete (more than 15-20 yrs old) acid stains may not work because much of the free lime has leeched away. Acrylic stains are great for old concrete because of its increased porosity over time. Acid stains work well with newer concrete because of the availability of free lime. If repairs need to be made such as patching pop outs or scaling, then acrylics may be the better choice to help disguise the repairs. Any patching materials will stand out with acid stains. For smooth trowelled interior surfaces with less porosity, acid stains are usually better because they don't require as much penetration to color the concrete.
Before beginning it's also important to have realistic expectations. Staining can turn dull, gray concrete into a beautiful and colorful finish, but it's impossible to know exactly how the finished product will look, especially with acid stains. Every concrete surface is different and so will accept stains differently. The exact same stain will have two different appearances with two different slabs. Even seasoned pros can't predict the exact outcome of a staining job. For this reason, it's not a good idea to try to exactly match the color of concrete to anything else such as brick or siding. There's a very good chance you won't be successful. Instead, choose a complimentary color or shade for your concrete. For instance, if you have light brown siding, then choose a dark brown stain.
The most critical part of staining is preparation. Take time in deciding how you want your concrete to look and getting the surface ready to apply the stain. You get one shot at getting it right unless you want to do a major overhaul to the surface. Do it yourself concrete staining is not a difficult process but does require an honest effort to be satisfied your finished product.
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Monday, October 24, 2011
Friday, October 21, 2011
Compost As an Alternative to Chemical Fertilizer
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Saturday, October 15, 2011
Earthmaker UK Assembly instructions
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Suncast TCB6800 6.5 Cubic Foot Tumbling Composter
!±8± Suncast TCB6800 6.5 Cubic Foot Tumbling Composter

Post Date : Sep 21, 2011 01:31:16 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Tumbling Composter
- Tumbling function makes compost in 3 - 4 weeks vs 1 yr in a stationary composter
- Galvanized sturdy steel frame (1-inch diameter tube)
- Component construction easily assembled and smaller merchandising cube
- Latching dual lids allow easy fill and empty
- Durable resin construction
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